Forceful Pouring Cleaning Method For Pico Reef Tanks

Maintaining pico reef tanks can be tricky because traditional cleaning methods often don’t work because of their size.

That’s where the Forceful Pouring Method comes in. It’s a simple yet effective way to remove detritus and debris while keeping your tank inhabitants safe when done right.

Let me walk you through how it works!

IMPORTANT: This guide is intended for informational purposes only. Always research thoroughly and consult with a reef-keeping professional if unsure about any step or method mentioned here. The methods described in this article are performed at your own risk. Always use caution and ensure the safety of yourself, your property, and your tank inhabitants during any maintenance.

The Forceful Pouring Method Explained

The forceful pouring method is exactly what it sounds like, pouring water into your tank with enough oomph to stir up the sand bed and dislodge waste.

I learned about 100% water changes and sand bed cleaning from brandon249, who has the oldest pico reef on YouTube, and I consider him the most knowledgable person about these tiny reefs and how to take care of them in the long term.

pico tank forceful cleaning method collage — a couple steps of the forceful cleaning method (my reef jar collage)

And yep, this method doubles as a 100% water change, which might sound scary, but trust me, most corals can handle it. Think about how they survive murky storm waters or being exposed at low tide and baking in the sun all day, they’ve got protective mucus and ways to retract for protection for a reason.

However, it’s not beginner-proof. If you’re too rough, you risk damaging or stressing out your corals or burying them and any critters under displaced sand. That’s why I recommend starting with light pours during regular water changes to get a feel for how much force your reef can take.

Just keep in mind that this isn’t something to rush! Done right, though, it keeps your reef sparkling and refreshed without tearing it completely apart.

Time Needed

The whole process shouldn’t take more than an hour. Setting things up can take as long as you’d like, but the most important part is keeping your tank and its inhabitants at the proper temperature throughout the process.

Setup to mix saltwater (10 minutes prep, 24 hours mix time)
Setting up for the pour (15 minutes)
Draining, pouring, and refilling (10 minutes maximum in total. You need to make sure everything is set and ready before starting this process.)
Cleanup (10-20 minutes)

What You Need

Gloves and protective eyewear
3-6 Gallons of clean, tested, heated saltwater. Depending on the size of your tank, size of the pour, and how dirty your system is. You can always save the extra for another water change if needed.
Airline tubing (to use as a siphon tube)
Tukey baster or pipette (final cleaning adjustments)
Cleaning towels (dedicated for reef maintenance only)
Drain plug (to prevent sand going down your sink or tub drain)
A friend to help (especially if you aren’t able to move your tank safely and carefully by yourself)

Step-by-Step Instructions

Always follow best reef-keeping safety practices. Before you start anything, make sure that you wear protective eyewear and gloves when doing any maintenance on your tank.

WARNING: Saltwater is extremely dangerous when electricity is involved and could lead to a fire, serious injury, or a fatal accident. Make sure all equipment is unplugged before working with saltwater, and ensure any and all spills are cleaned before turning on equipment.

Ensure all equipment used in your tank is compatible with your specific setup and is properly maintained to avoid malfunctions or hazards.

Here is how I do this method:

Step 1. Preparation

Mix Your Saltwater: Make sure you’ve got plenty of premixed saltwater ready to go. I always mix mine the day before so it has time to aerate and stabilize. Check that the temperature and pH match your tank’s water. This is super important!
Set Up Your Workspace: Lay out towels (you’ll need more than you think), prep your sink, basin, or tub to catch spills, and keep some RO water handy for wiping up salty messes. Trust me, salt gets everywhere. Plug your drains so sand can’t clog them.
Lights Out: Turn off your tank lights about 30 minutes before starting. This gives corals time to close up so they’re less vulnerable during cleaning.
Unplug Everything: Safety First! Unplug heaters, lights, pumps, everything electrical, about 10–15 minutes before you begin. Saltwater and electricity are not friends, and we’re not taking any chances here with safety.
Tripping Hazards: Make sure that there are no tripping hazards in your working areas, especially when moving your tank around.

Again, make sure that you have already unplugged all equipment, and protect all outlets from splashes, because saltwater is extremely dangerous when electricity is involved and could lead to a fire, serious injury, or a fatal accident.

Step 2. Siphon & Move

Start Siphoning: Remove about half the tank’s water, or more, with a siphon to make it lighter and easier to handle. If you have delicate corals that could get knocked around during cleaning, place them in this siphoned water for safekeeping while you work on the main tank. I use an old airline as my siphon line.
Relocate Your Tank: Carefully move your pico reef to a sink or large basin where any overflow can be contained (and keep in mind, you can not let sand down your drain! Plug them up.).

If you can’t do this yourself safely, get some help! Or, leave the tank where it is and follow Step 3a, being extra careful to prevent splashes and spills.

Step 3. Pouring

This is where the magic happens!

Determine if you’re going to follow Steps 3a or 3b. This depends on if you’re doing a really deep clean or just a weekly maintenance clean. For beginners, I always recommend starting with a light cleaning (3a) until you get the hang of things. Remember, your saltwater has to be tested, premixed, and at temperature before doing anything.

Step 3a. Process for Light Cleaning (Weekly/Biweekly)

For regular maintenance, I stick with about two gallons of saltwater in total for the pour (not including the final refill). If this is your first time, have 5 gallons on hand just in case you need it.

Do not let sand go down your drain. Always plug your drains.
Your tank should only have about 50% water since you removed some already to move your tank safely.
Do one gentle pour directly into the sand bed to stir things up. Keep pouring until the water level is near the top, but not overflowing.
Siphon out all of the dirty water and loosen debris as much as possible. You may need to tilt your tank to allow the worst of the gunk to collect in one spot to siphon it out. Be careful not to let any rockwork fall over or shift around that could break your glass or crush any livestock.
Repeat the above step, the water should be almost cleared up.
Next, I like to use a turkey baster to use any remaining saltwater to clean off rocks and corals EXTREMELY GENTLY. Just to remove sand and debris that may have been collected on them.
Tilt the tank again and siphon what’s left in the bottom.
Repeat steps 3a (4-6) above if the water is still looking awful.
Go to Step 4 (Refilling Your Tank) below.

Step 3b. Overflow Process for Deep Cleaning (Once a Year Maximum)

Sometimes tanks need extra love, and by love, I mean a thorough, deep clean. I like to use about five gallons of saltwater for this process.

Get familiar with all the steps in Step 3a before attempting these steps.
Do not let sand go down your drain. Always plug your drains. If a lot of sand is coming out of the top of your tank, you’re pouring too hard or too fast.
Once set up in a large sink, basin, or tub, start pouring your clean saltwater directly into the sand bed.
Keep pouring until the overflow starts looking clear instead of cloudy.
For stubborn spots, grab a turkey baster and gently blow around rocks or corals to dislodge hidden debris.
Once done, siphon out all remaining dirty water before moving to Refilling Your Tank in Step 4 below.

Step 5. Refilling Your Tank

Now that your tank has been cleaned and is empty:

Wipe down and dry the outside of your pico tank before moving it back home. I dampen a towel with RO water for this step. Use towels that won’t leave lint everywhere and won’t be used by people. Always use dedicated reef cleaning supplies.
Replace any rocks or corals you removed earlier.
Place your tank back where it lives in your home.
Reattach all equipment like heaters and airlines, but hold off on plugging anything in just yet.
Carefully refill with your remaining clean, preheated, pre-tested saltwater until the level is back where you want it.
Clean any spills.
Double-check there aren’t stray puddles or splashes of saltwater, especially on or near anything electrical.
Once clean and safe to do so, plug your equipment in.
Turn on the heater and pump, keeping the lights off for now.
You will notice that corals have mucus all over and look messy. But give it time to clear on its own. If there are any large grains of sand on your corals, this is a good time to use a pipette to gently blow it off them.
Wait at least 10 minutes before turning the lights back on. I don’t recommend blasting your tank with full-strength lighting here. Very slowly ramp them up if possible.

Step 6. Post-Cleanup

You’re almost done.

Tidy up your sink or tub. Again, don’t let sand go down the drain. I carefully drain the water and use a paper towel to wipe any remaining sand. It’s tedious but better than having to call a plumber and footing a large bill.
Give your corals time to chill. They might sulk at first (some types are dramatic like that), but most will perk right up once they realize how nice their freshly cleaned home feels. This can be minutes, hours, and in some cases, a day or so.

And that’s it! Regular maintenance like this keeps detritus from building up in small tanks where every bit counts toward keeping parameters stable, and trust me, happy corals are worth every minute spent cleaning.

Got questions? Feel free to ask. I’m always happy to share tips!