Turbo Snails

Turbo snails are large in size and have a strong appetite, making them effective at tackling stubborn algae problems that smaller snail species struggle with.

However, their larger size means that they can sometimes accidentally knock over corals when grazing. Ugh! Keep reading to learn how to care for these algae-eating bulldozers while minimizing potential issues in your reef setup.

What Turbo Snails Look Like

Turbo snails have thick, heavy shells with a spiral shape that points to the side rather than straight up. Many turbos that you’ll find for sale have patterns of small rounded bumps on their shells.

Mexican turbo snails are one of the most popular types of turbos in the hobby and can grow up to 2 inches in shell size.

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When not covered in algae, their coloration ranges from light brown to reddish-brown, often with whitish and dark brown mottling. Two small tentacles on their head, used for sensing and finding food, sit just in front of their eyes.

Other marine snails that are often confused with turbos:

• Trochus Snails: Larger (1.5-2.5 inches), Black colored bodies, More conical shell shape
• Astraea Snails: Smaller (about 1 inch), Flatter shell profile

Diet and Feeding

Turbo snails spend their days grazing on various types of algae, including:

• Filamentous algae (think hair algae)
• Turf algae
• Diatoms
• Cyanobacteria (in small amounts)

You’ll often spot them methodically scraping algae off rocks, glass, and substrate with their specialized feeding organ called a radula. This rough, tongue-like structure is perfectly adapted for rasping algae off surfaces.

While turbo snails are excellent algae eaters, they don’t typically compete with other tank mates for food.

Dried seaweed sheets or algae wafers can be a great backup food supply.

When natural algae growth is sparse or in tanks with large populations of herbivorous fish like tangs, you might need to supplement their diet.

Turbo snails won’t harm your corals or other invertebrates intentionally. They’re strictly herbivores. However, their size and sometimes clumsy movements can accidentally knock over small coral frags or disturb more delicate invertebrates when they’re searching for food.

Tank Setup

I think a minimum 30-gallon tank provides enough space for these active grazers. Plenty of live rock gives them both grazing surfaces and hiding spots.

I have often found myself checking up on turbos just to make sure they haven’t gotten stuck somewhere or fallen over and are unable to right themselves. I think they are better than other types of snails, but not as good as trochus snails.

While lighting isn’t a big deal for the snails, it promotes algae growth. A moderate to strong water flow keeps detritus from settling, but avoid placing powerheads where they might dislodge the snails (like directly at rock work).

How many turbo snails can you keep in a reef tank? For a 30-gallon tank, start with 2-3 snails. Aim for about one snail per 10-15 gallons in larger setups. You’ll need to adjust based on your tank’s algae levels, but avoid overstocking to ensure each snail has enough to eat.

Here’s a quick reference for their ideal water parameters:

Parameter	Ideal Range
Temperature	72-80°F (22-27°C)
pH	8.1-8.4
Salinity	1.023-1.025 sg
Alkalinity	8-12 dKH
Calcium	350-450 ppm
Magnesium	1250-1350 ppm

Calcium and alkalinity are particularly important for turbo snails. These elements help maintain their shells. Regular testing and dosing of these supplements can prevent shell erosion and promote healthy growth.

Keep an eye on your turbo snails’ shells for signs of erosion or cracks, which can indicate low calcium levels or acidic water.

If you notice a snail’s body shrinking or it’s not moving for days, it might be sick, dying, or already dead. High nitrates can also stress snails and weaken their shells.

Acclimation

When it comes to acclimating turbo snails, less is often more. Here’s my approach:

1. Turn your tank lights to prevent cooking the snail in the bag.
2. Float the bag in your tank for about 15 minutes to equalize the temperature.
3. Open the bag and quickly transfer the snail directly into your tank, discarding the shipping water.
4. Place the snail gently on a rock or near your rock work to make it easy to sprint to where it feels safest.
5. Keep the lights dim for the first few hours to reduce stress.
6. Monitor the snail closely for the next few days. It may take up to 72 hours for it to become fully active.

Long drip acclimations aren’t necessary for turbo snails. These intertidal creatures are adapted to handle quick changes in water chemistry. Extended exposure to shipping water can be more harmful due to ammonia buildup (if you’ve ordered it online).

Never use pest dips or other treatments, as it will kill them. If you’re worried about pests, quarantine it before adding it to your display tank.

Don’t panic if your new turbo snail doesn’t start zooming around immediately. Give it time to adjust to its new home.

Behavior And Tank Mates

Turbo snails are peaceful, active grazers that spend most of their time cleaning algae from surfaces. They’re diurnal, meaning they’re active during daylight hours, so you’ll often see them crawling across rocks and glass.

Suitable tank mates:

• Most peaceful reef fish
• Other herbivorous snails
• Hermit crabs
• Non-aggressive shrimp species

Species to avoid:

• Predatory fish (e.g., puffers, triggerfish)
• Large, aggressive crustaceans
• Fish that may nip at their tentacles (e.g., some wrasses)

Breeding And Reproduction

Breeding turbo snails in home reef tanks is rare, so you’ll need to replace them periodically.

Turbo snails typically live for 1-2 years, but some reef keepers have had success much longer. I think the most significant problems are purchasing older snails and keeping a consistent food supply.

If you notice tiny snails in your tank, they’re likely offspring of other species. Turbo snails won’t become a nuisance through reproduction. However, they might compete for algae if you somehow end up with too many (perhaps through overzealous purchasing). In this case, you can easily remove excess snails or trade them with other reef keepers.

While breeding is unlikely, you might observe mating behaviors like one snail climbing onto another’s shell. This doesn’t usually result in successful reproduction in home tanks.

Can You Keep Turbo Snails In A Reef Jar?

Keeping turbo snails in a reef jar (pico reef under 2 gallons) is 100% NOT RECOMMENDED!

They’re simply too big to get around, and a jar or vase can’t sustain enough algae growth to keep a turbo snail fed. You’d constantly need to supplement their diet, which can be tricky. These snails also produce a fair amount of waste due to their size, which would probably require more frequent water changes.

If you’re set on snails, look into much smaller species like a single stomatella snail, which are better suited to pico reef environments.